Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness - 2001
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This would be my first of four (as of 2021) trips to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. Every trip to this region has been magical, and my first one really set the stage for the adventure and isolation that this region provides. Our trip was scheduled for September 2001 and was explained to me as a three day trip. It would involve a seaplane picking us up in Ely, MN and dropping us off in Quetico National Provincial Park in Ontario. We would canoe back to the US, getting picked up at the iconic, but no longer present Chainsaw Sisters Tavern near Mudro Lake.
When we arrived at the outfitter, it turns out we were a day late, and it was anticipated to be a four day trip. At this point in my outdoor experience, I still carried nearly an extra day of food. So, this wasn't too bad. In hindsight, I would later conclude this should have been a five day trip, and not four. Further complicating our start was the suspension of aircraft following the 9/11 attacks. Our outfitter drove us to one of the larger lakes, and with a speed boat crossed into Canada at a border checkpoint. The seaplane picked us up at this border checkpoint and dropped us off in the middle of Lac La Croix near Irving Island in Quetico Provincial Park. I still remember the shock and fear as the pilot untied our canoes from the pontoon, and set us off. Once we reached the island involving the portage and the plane left, I felt an incredible isolation and a little fear. As we completed our first portage, the magnitude of what is in front of us mentally and physically became clearer. After the first portage, we entered Iron Lake. Although I have traveled in rivers previously, I would now learn the challenges of marine navigation. Much harder. We had a lot of difficulty navigating through Iron Lake, especially finding the eastern exit to Sunday Bay. At the end of this portage, we saw the incredible Curtain Falls, the massive lake emptying into the next one. After a short snack, we navigated the larger Sunday and Saturday Bays, and settled for camp on an island in Sunday Bay. It was dark.
The second day we correctly surmised that we would have to push very hard to reach our pickup now two days away. We made very good time traversing through Friday, Thursday, and Wednesday Bays. Then we entered the long channel of Crooked Lake and settled for the night at Basswood Falls. This was a very beautiful area, but popular. There was a very large camp across the lake.
The third day started with the challenge of navigating the narrow path we needed to take alongside the multiple junction of rivers and paths where we camped. Again, we lost a few hours taking wrong turns, but eventually got onto Horse River. Although slower than the lakes, we eventually got to Horse Lake. A number of portages later, we got to Fourtown Lake. We were in a good position for our pickup tomorrow.
Because we anticipated a short day, we headed out after breakfast. Mudro Lake is typically lower, and the water levels decrease. There is tall grass and reeds, and the speed is very, very slow. After Mudro Lake, the depth is slow low that it is faster to pull your boat along the 8" water depth. I was glad we arrived in Chainsaw Sisters early. It allowed us to have a few drinks to celebrate and get something to eat. Later the establishment would be removed, and I'm pleased to have the opportunity to see it. Overall, a great trip that really started my spirit of adventure.